Medieval Castle Hotels in Holland

At dusk, when cooing birds whir wildly over the towering turrets of moated castles, medieval Europe comes alive again.

Nestled in forest glens and quiet villages far from windmills, wooden-shoe factories and other tourist traps, Holland's best-kept secrets are its romantic castles. Dozens of them dot the flat landscape, evoking days of yore.

They're modest by most European standards. In fact, as castles go, they're downright cozy. With their dormers, rotund towers, moats and drawbridges, castles first appeared in the Netherlands in the 12th century. In their heyday, up to 3,000 graced this small country.

Ravaged by wars, theft and the simple passage of time, only about 100 still remain, ranging from authentic medieval structures to contemporary restorations with original ground plans. Visitors looking for a taste of Europe in the Middle Ages can expect all the lore but none of the gore. The brutality of medieval life is lost in these pristine grounds.

But don't be fooled by their diminutive size. When it comes to patrician pomp on the inside, the Dutch abandon their modesty and flaunt shamelessly. Many of these castles are refurbished with antique furniture, paintings and tapestries culled from the country's rich art heritage. Muiden Castle, just 10 miles from Amsterdam, even presents live falconry demonstrations.

A few castles are still inhabited by aristocrats, but most are open to the public and showcased as museums. During World War II, the stately Doornenburg Castle, situated near the German border, was turned into a regional Nazi headquarters. It was bombed, but rebuilt after the war.

For a memorable experience, try spending a night in one of the handful of castles that have been converted into hotels, such as the petit Wittem Castle in the castle-dotted southern Dutch province of Limburg.



Against a backdrop of gentle hills and a skyline of lone church spires, the moated castle was a knights' seat with a history dating back to 1100. These days, its stony appearance conceals a warm and intimate interior where guests are pampered in rustic but elegant salon and dining rooms. It has 12 bedrooms, including two in its chubby tower.

For dinner, guests are first ushered into the oak-beamed salon for an aperitif. Classical music wafts in the background. The evening continues in the intimate dining room where guests are served multicourse dinners by the expert Dutch chef Marcel Bisselink which usually feature game such as hare and venison. All that fine food and rustic elegance doesn't come cheap. An overnight stay, dinner and breakfast for two people at Wittem costs about $300.

Beyond your means? Fret not. In this staunchly egalitarian country, it's no surprise to find several castles-turned-hostels for budget-minded travelers. Westhove Castle, located on the southwestern flank of the Netherlands in the province of Zeeland, is tucked into a nature reserve a short walk from the sandy beaches known - perhaps somewhat pretentiously - as the Zeeland Riviera. Sitting on an idyllic spot, the 13th-century castle has a moat and four turrets. The only sound to jolt the tranquility is the roaring of the waves at high tide.

Admittedly, the hostel's dormitories and shared bathrooms aren't for everyone. Its somewhat shabby interior is also a major letdown when compared to the splendor of its facade. But when bed and breakfast cost only about $15, slumming it in a medieval castle can still be a memorable experience.

Ask for one of the tower dormitories. You'll spend the night peeking through narrow lookout windows - and fall asleep dreaming of gallant knights and fair damsels